pc

Peak at Windows 8

Windows 8 looks to be jumping on current trends. As far as operating systems go, this one does not look like it is in for the long haul. Let's see what it does to your resources. Would be nice on the Xbox,

Read more...

Intel buys McAfee for just under $8b

Oh boy, junk bought garbage!

Read more...

StarCraft II: Wings of Liberty – Patch 1.0.2

starcraft ii got a new patch today

Read more...

GTAIV issues, what works for me.

You would not believe the speed increase I gained from this. The game has no lag issues. I stay at 30 fps min, and never have any stutter, never have any vanishing items.

Read more...

Name that video game

I am starting something new on my area.

It’s about gamers for gamers

What I will do is on occasions (hoping for at least once a week, ) post a picture from game

and see if anyone can guess the game.

 More of the game here with prizes.

Oh yeah.. In the battle cry of the humble

hfgl

Take Two Makes It Clear Why It Will Not Make PC Version Of GTA IV

I was watching a YouTube video about how some guy stumbled upon a GTA IV offer on
Take Two Interactive’s Web site here. It’s fake and I could explain how simple and the 500 ways you can fake it, but hey if you are dumb enough to believe it (after what I have to show you), then hey, you will not understand me.

OK. While watching the address to the links he was clicking, and since it was blurry and all I had to go through and click all of the same links to bring me to page that did not exist. it led me to the lawsuit it received for the last game it put out for PC.
It seems Rockstar and Take Two will not be participating in the whole (edit my stuff) game anymore.

the page is addressed in his bar.

That will take you to a page that has one link in it and it mentions GTA.

You might want to read what it says.

Class action suit
There have been two games that have not made pc. it has been four years since we got to w.a.s.d. up down left right space bar shift ctrl 0  e-q and of course “R” to change to the closest lazlow show.
left click right click and  spin the scroll wheel to find our favorite gun, or just hit the hot key we assigned.
The only way I could any hope or faith, is if there was an announcement of the cities being released for pc while we wait for a better graphix and bugs fixed version of IV to be ported   but that won’t happen.

p2p killer

[tags]games,pc,action,racing,gta,grand theft auto,vice city,san andreas,gtaIII,gta3,p2p,torrent,new games,serial keys[/tags]

Logging into my myspace account today I saw an advertisement that made me kinda have a shock of reality.

I looked at the advertisement , even though it is not like me to do this, I clicked the advertisement , it was grand theft auto direct to hard drive.

here

Looks liek games direct to your hard drive, My question is, do you have to use daemon tools to spin up the iso? (if you use anything  for your iso’s you clearly are a newb). Or does this come in an exe file that uses someone’s game crack?. Do you have to pay with credit card and watch your bank account/checking account for suspiciouse activity for the next year or so ?

I really have no idea because I am not balzy enough to do it. I think the day I make that step is the day I decide I will make one last purchase with current checking account before I close it. I am in no way phoebic, I am wise.

So if you are doing something similar, tell me how it whent.

I really think that if video game companies really wanted to make any money off of illegal downloads and such, they would make their own exe cracks  and sell them with some sort serial key, and then add a small fee if the gamer wants a cover. Something like “the plus pack” means they get the key and and cracked exe and a week later they get a blank cd and a full blown game case in the mail.

Hell I dunno  I just think these people could make money off of the people ripping them off, if they would just offer faster bandwidth than p2p, and more features.

Precautions For Building Computers

Use lots of overhead light. Once you have all the parts together, find a flat, smooth, clean, static-free surface. Make sure your clothes are not polyester or you stand a chance of building up buttloads of static and having a merciless discharge turning your junk into… well… junk.

I like using Gatorade lids to hold my screws and small parts in. Yeah Trailer Park Boys-ish, I know, but it works. Working above tile is good, also, so you can hear the small parts when they drop and kinda locate them easier by where the sound comes from. With the tower open and all parts scattered on the table, lower the motherboard in. Take small pin nails and set them through the mounting holes to mark your spot — should take like 6-9 of them depending on board size and tower abilities. Pull motherboard back out and try to not disturb the pin nails. Replace each nail with mounting studs, lower board in, and screw it down. Follow instructions in the manuals for motherboard and instructions from tower to set up power switches and USB connectors. you may sometimes need to split the end connector for the tower speaker so it fits the prongs. Tie back wires so they stay low and out of view.

Insert RAM, CPU, and heat sink. Simply put: Be gentle, be slow, bend no prongs, and scratch no boards

Set in all drives: CD-ROM / DVD / hard drive / floppy drive. Place the power supply in, and take the board connecting the wire strand and try and map the cleanest, least visible route. Then plug it in. Do not crack the motherboard (yes, it can happen)! Do the same with the drives. I tie them to the rack as I go down the line. Keep hard drives away from all magnets — even the case speaker magnet!

The Video card is done pretty much the same way as the RAM. The slit(s) in the card tells you which way it should face.

Get a good look at the inner case. All air paths need to be clear of anything — even wires. Now plan the path your air will flow and then look at your fans to see which direction the blades should face to achieve the airflow you planned.

Close the case, cross toes, plug in all devices for first boot, and press power button. Pray for BIOS/CMOS boot. Press delete and watch temperatures for about ten minutes or until you see that it is getting really hot.

More stuff to keep in mind.

Computer Component Removal

For hardware removal, there are some simple rules you should follow.

1. Unplug the PC first!
2. Disconnect all wires coming from the power supply. Unscrew the four screws on the back of the power supply. Slide the power supply out of its case and set it aside.
3. Disconnect all IDE cables and FDD cables and set them aside.
4. Unscrew all screws from all drives and slide drives out and set them aside.
5. Unscrew the fan on the heatsink. Unclasp the heatsink, wipe off heat paste, and set aside. Pull out CPU, wipe off paste, and set it with prongs facing up.
6. Disconnect power and reset buttons, wires, and USB wires and case speaker wires. Tie them back.
7. Unscrew the retaining screw for the video card. Undo locking mech (if you have AGP) and just slide the AGP card out.
8. Push down on retaining clips on the memory cards and slide memory cards out and set aside.
9. Unscrew retaining screws for the motherboard. Pull the motherboard out and set it aside.
10. If you are just cleaning , I suggest you use canned air and blast every little inch in which you see dust (but do not be careless); remember, some items cannot take a beating, so be very careful.
11. Just reverse the removal method when you are ready to reinstall.

my page

Computer Hardware Installation

Installing hardware into a fresh PC is not that complicated, really.

If the prongs and the holes line up, read the part number and look it up and check compatibilities. Sometimes some hardware is too powerful, so checking specs is always a plus. 80% of the time they will work, but sometimes you can run into problems — like an AMD Athlon XP will not fit into an AMD Athlon 64 board. Same goes for AMD and Pentium. Prongs won’t line up.

The red wire always faces toward the power source. Look really close to the IDE cables (even the ones with the center top hole filled); you will notice there is a red dotted wire. Magnify it if you need to. Same with the FDD seven cable twist. FDD plugs in after the twist — never before.

PCI or AGP video cards just clip in. If it has a hook at the end, it is AGP. If not, then it is not. AGP will be the smaller slot.

Memory is just a clip in, also. Look up board manufacturers and part numbers and read through the specs for the board to know the minimum and maximum memory capabilities for your PC. (I have also looked this up more than… well, plenty of times and can easily do it. You can, too!)

With the CPU, once again, part numbers and manufacturer numbers are of wonderful help. Check board specs, check CPU specs, and always double check before the hard part, which is sliding the CPU into the dock. Squirt a thin layer of heat sink paste on the side facing away from the motherboard. Set the heatsink onto the CPU and center it before it actually touches (so you don’t smear off the heat paste while wiggling all around to position it). Clasp the retainer on either side. Screw the fan down to the heatsink. Plug the fan into the board.

With the power supply, make sure you have one strong enough to run your fan and that meets your CPU’s requirements. Make sure it is fastened really tightly; clip all wires into what ever hole they fit in (this is usually true). If you have one drive power connector that has no other splices or additional connectors on it, I would suggest you either use it for the master drive or you could plug your fans and lights into that connector.

With IDE and FDD cables, red goes toward the power source.

The use of a hot glue gun by splatting a tad at the clasps for most parts except the CPU is okay to prevent stuff from falling out of place.

Scroll to the bottom of my page if you want to make a donation and request further assistance. Any donation helps! If the problem is resolved, please pass this link on when you know of someone in need.