p2p killer

[tags]games,pc,action,racing,gta,grand theft auto,vice city,san andreas,gtaIII,gta3,p2p,torrent,new games,serial keys[/tags]

Logging into my myspace account today I saw an advertisement that made me kinda have a shock of reality.

I looked at the advertisement , even though it is not like me to do this, I clicked the advertisement , it was grand theft auto direct to hard drive.

here

Looks liek games direct to your hard drive, My question is, do you have to use daemon tools to spin up the iso? (if you use anything  for your iso’s you clearly are a newb). Or does this come in an exe file that uses someone’s game crack?. Do you have to pay with credit card and watch your bank account/checking account for suspiciouse activity for the next year or so ?

I really have no idea because I am not balzy enough to do it. I think the day I make that step is the day I decide I will make one last purchase with current checking account before I close it. I am in no way phoebic, I am wise.

So if you are doing something similar, tell me how it whent.

I really think that if video game companies really wanted to make any money off of illegal downloads and such, they would make their own exe cracks  and sell them with some sort serial key, and then add a small fee if the gamer wants a cover. Something like “the plus pack” means they get the key and and cracked exe and a week later they get a blank cd and a full blown game case in the mail.

Hell I dunno  I just think these people could make money off of the people ripping them off, if they would just offer faster bandwidth than p2p, and more features.

50 megs implements file share widget

[tags]bandwdith, code, file share, file sharing, html, leeche, p2p, server, swap, trade, widget[/tags]

I just got noticed that my web host and domain host and storage host 50 megs.com finally got someone creative on their server’s team.

What it seems they have done is allow me 1 gig of storage for quick file sharing of files up to 10 megs each. I am not certain as to if it will cost me from my monthly bandwidth, if that is the case then , BLAH.. heck I could do it anyway with out. but if it does not reflect upon my monthly bandwidth limit, then it is a great deal.

Here is what it looks like

I have yet to have found a site that accepts the code or can use it in any shape or form, so it is kinda useless as of right now. That is of course as a widget it is useless on networks. I may try it on facebook and myspace, but as of right now, it is a server so I can get work stuff to and from home. Well actually I have nothing on it but I can see a need for it. ;) **added ** works well on myspace, kinda…. but pops out all clumsy and covers some of my information myspace.com/truxter **added**

I will probably comment at the end of the month about how much bandwidth it drains from my web hosting service.

[kml_flashembed movie="http://www.box.net/static/flash/box_explorer.swf?widgetHash=907bd51dfd31da0898825583d9f07b16&loginHash=&partnerFolderName=My Shared Files&partnerMessage=Use this folder to add your photos, songs or documents!&apiKey=u2bzhsvhc2ulb69ntc9m727r4cl35gpu" width="400" height="400" wmode="transparent" /]

ok see for yourself that the uploads and downloads are fricken raging fast. This has to be the fastest way to share a small file.

Someone comment on this . please? i wanna know if you see it, or even if you see it useful.

Upgraded Linux Xandros To 4

I was using Xandros 3.4 for over a year. I purchased my disk from Fry’s electronics for like $29.

Well I saw in all of the help forums for modding of Xandros desktops and boot screens tons of help but it was all for 4.0 so I installed 4.0 . It really looks good and comes with a blue launch button as opposed to the default red I had to use with v3.4 . Quite nice. I changed the start button to a modified that I found through the links of the Xandros forum. with 3.4 when you changed the launch button you kept getting a notice to upgrade service pack, even if you already have. When you do the service pack upgrade it changes your launch button back to default. but with 4.0 , no you do not get forced into the change. Nice addon I like this.

When I installed wine again, not a hiccup one. Not one issue. It went great. My Grand Theft Auto Vice City and San Andreas both play nicely and my III does not freeze up on the video configuration like it did with 3.4.

I am happy with 4.0 it was a very good move.

I was there at Fry’s to actually by a new motherboard and nvidia video card so I could prepare myself for Vista. Thank god I did not get into that mess. Xandros is really good. I did of course remove my Ubuntu partition. Ubuntu is not pleasant at all. Even though Ubuntu is Debian just like Xandros; it does not come close in comparison to Xandros with features. I am satisfied and I hope this helped you decide what you will do to you computer.

enjoy.

Gaming Company Mergers

We have heard about EA bidding for Rockstar Games and Microsoft bidding as well.

What I have heard today is that Sierra is being bought out by Blizzard games. Sierra is the maker of most Blizzard expansions anyhow, and will just take on the Blizzard name. Sierra also made expansions to many first person shooters. Let’s see what happens in the future.

In the back of my mind I see it being cool to mix two companies but somehow the stupid section is making the most sense. “Hey, I will be limited in choices” if all gaming companies merged into one.

Computer Cooling

Get more fans, reduce occupied space, tie wires back, increase air flow, and update heat paste.

Clean all dust out of all heatsinks and fans and off of any memory or any exposed chips.

Contrary to the past few years of opinions that say using some modified heat paste, and how it reduces temps by a drastic amount. I am currently using original heatsink that came with my CPU, and it has the factory tape on it. I have owned it for about 3 months now and done some pretty stiff gaming, mostly Crysis (demo) and Need For Speed Carbon and most wanted. My temperatures are amazing, but as I know with all things, it wont last. Or maybe it will. My current temperatures are as follows:

<taken from everest>

Temperatures
Motherboard 28 °C (82 °F)
CPU 22 °C (72 °F)
HDT722516DLAT80 31 °C (88 °F)
MAXTOR 6L080L4 23 °C (73 °F)

Cooling Fans
CPU 3013 RPM
Chassis 4116 RPM

Yes I know the Hittatchi is a little warmer than it could be, but in all the time I have messed with computers, I have never seen under 90 degrees for the CPU , other than right at boot. and that was typically around 89 degrees. I will be buying more of the heat tape that came with my Sempron if I can locate it.

Many people suggest that you use some paste/metal mix stuff. I have never been to keen on that junk, after it warms up for a long time and gets used a few times the stuff tends to harden, or become so tacky it’s like jb weld and could damage a few things when removing parts when cold.. Plus temps where always at least 8 degrees warmer than if I used the $3 white packets of paste. the major issue with the white stuff, well, you have to tend to it often and redo it atleast once every three months.

I try and not block any path of airflow. i have double checked airflow with a piece of scotch tape to see how it flaps and where it flaps.

The best cooling for a case involves a dremel, a drill, a metal file, 80 mm fan. and a brave brave soul. you use the dremel and a drill to punch an 80 mm hole at the top of the case facing upward and build yourself a fan there blowing air inward. the reason for inward is so you do not steal the air from the power supply cooling, that would easily increase the temp of ps unless you either make a tunnel or a blockade but would drop overall temp of case, now a tunnel makes great for making sure you blow air directly onto and across the motherboard.

Another suggestion is three 50mm fans across one of the CD-ROM bays but you have to build a frame for them.. which I will put on the site later… oh… and it is frickin’ loud.

Precautions For Building Computers

Use lots of overhead light. Once you have all the parts together, find a flat, smooth, clean, static-free surface. Make sure your clothes are not polyester or you stand a chance of building up buttloads of static and having a merciless discharge turning your junk into… well… junk.

I like using Gatorade lids to hold my screws and small parts in. Yeah Trailer Park Boys-ish, I know, but it works. Working above tile is good, also, so you can hear the small parts when they drop and kinda locate them easier by where the sound comes from. With the tower open and all parts scattered on the table, lower the motherboard in. Take small pin nails and set them through the mounting holes to mark your spot — should take like 6-9 of them depending on board size and tower abilities. Pull motherboard back out and try to not disturb the pin nails. Replace each nail with mounting studs, lower board in, and screw it down. Follow instructions in the manuals for motherboard and instructions from tower to set up power switches and USB connectors. you may sometimes need to split the end connector for the tower speaker so it fits the prongs. Tie back wires so they stay low and out of view.

Insert RAM, CPU, and heat sink. Simply put: Be gentle, be slow, bend no prongs, and scratch no boards

Set in all drives: CD-ROM / DVD / hard drive / floppy drive. Place the power supply in, and take the board connecting the wire strand and try and map the cleanest, least visible route. Then plug it in. Do not crack the motherboard (yes, it can happen)! Do the same with the drives. I tie them to the rack as I go down the line. Keep hard drives away from all magnets — even the case speaker magnet!

The Video card is done pretty much the same way as the RAM. The slit(s) in the card tells you which way it should face.

Get a good look at the inner case. All air paths need to be clear of anything — even wires. Now plan the path your air will flow and then look at your fans to see which direction the blades should face to achieve the airflow you planned.

Close the case, cross toes, plug in all devices for first boot, and press power button. Pray for BIOS/CMOS boot. Press delete and watch temperatures for about ten minutes or until you see that it is getting really hot.

More stuff to keep in mind.

Computer Component Removal

For hardware removal, there are some simple rules you should follow.

  1. Unplug the PC first!
  2. Disconnect all wires coming from the power supply. Unscrew the four screws on the back of the power supply. Slide the power supply out of its case and set it aside.
  3. Disconnect all IDE cables and FDD cables and set them aside.
  4. Unscrew all screws from all drives and slide drives out and set them aside.
  5. Unscrew the fan on the heatsink. Unclasp the heatsink, wipe off heat paste, and set aside. Pull out CPU, wipe off paste, and set it with prongs facing up.
  6. Disconnect power and reset buttons, wires, and USB wires and case speaker wires. Tie them back.
  7. Unscrew the retaining screw for the video card. Undo locking mech (if you have AGP) and just slide the AGP card out.
  8. Push down on retaining clips on the memory cards and slide memory cards out and set aside.
  9. Unscrew retaining screws for the motherboard. Pull the motherboard out and set it aside.
  10. If you are just cleaning , I suggest you use canned air and blast every little inch in which you see dust (but do not be careless); remember, some items cannot take a beating, so be very careful.
  11. Just reverse the removal method when you are ready to reinstall.

my page

Computer Hardware Installation

Installing hardware into a fresh PC is not that complicated, really.

If the prongs and the holes line up, read the part number and look it up and check compatibilities. Sometimes some hardware is too powerful, so checking specs is always a plus. 80% of the time they will work, but sometimes you can run into problems — like an AMD Athlon XP will not fit into an AMD Athlon 64 board. Same goes for AMD and Pentium. Prongs won’t line up.

The red wire always faces toward the power source. Look really close to the IDE cables (even the ones with the center top hole filled); you will notice there is a red dotted wire. Magnify it if you need to. Same with the FDD seven cable twist. FDD plugs in after the twist — never before.

PCI or AGP video cards just clip in. If it has a hook at the end, it is AGP. If not, then it is not. AGP will be the smaller slot.

Memory is just a clip in, also. Look up board manufacturers and part numbers and read through the specs for the board to know the minimum and maximum memory capabilities for your PC. (I have also looked this up more than… well, plenty of times and can easily do it. You can, too!)

With the CPU, once again, part numbers and manufacturer numbers are of wonderful help. Check board specs, check CPU specs, and always double check before the hard part, which is sliding the CPU into the dock. Squirt a thin layer of heat sink paste on the side facing away from the motherboard. Set the heatsink onto the CPU and center it before it actually touches (so you don’t smear off the heat paste while wiggling all around to position it). Clasp the retainer on either side. Screw the fan down to the heatsink. Plug the fan into the board.

With the power supply, make sure you have one strong enough to run your fan and that meets your CPU’s requirements. Make sure it is fastened really tightly; clip all wires into what ever hole they fit in (this is usually true). If you have one drive power connector that has no other splices or additional connectors on it, I would suggest you either use it for the master drive or you could plug your fans and lights into that connector.

With IDE and FDD cables, red goes toward the power source.

The use of a hot glue gun by splatting a tad at the clasps for most parts except the CPU is okay to prevent stuff from falling out of place.

Scroll to the bottom of my page if you want to make a donation and request further assistance. Any donation helps! If the problem is resolved, please pass this link on when you know of someone in need.

Shopping Tip: iPod Vs. Zune Vs. chiPod

With the chiPod you pay an average of 30 buck a gig.

with the iPod you pay no less than 75 for the basic model.

with the Zune prices similar to iPod but start around 150+

iPod easy scratched and shattered.

chiPod, if you break it, oh well. You paid nearly nothing for it.

Zune is tough

iPod media is limited to only being played on iPod

chiPod, media is for old school p2p people, limited by only trends.

Zune same as iPod but both do play pirated stuff also. not vice versa. and not each other’s.

iPod gets updates to firmware when flaws are found.

chiPod you can complety hack the whole thing.

Zune gets mandated updates, I think.

OK, on to the good part

The iPod has a ton more content with iTunes being so poular and up and out and veterined to pleasing the customers with media they want. The iPod has tons of hacks that void the warranties, but you can do it anyway.

ChiPod has a comunity of freinds who all ban together to make and update and upgrade the firmware. Most of us have either a Zune or an iPod also but still love to mod our cheapy. the chiPod you can take anywhere without the stress of tearing up something good. My chiPod matched my iPod so no one knows the difference anyway when I am out and around. :P Battery life is pathetic, then again storage is not much greater.

Zune. This sucker looks like a tank and the whole software and interface is great not confusing , the storage on these is large and read times do not seem to be any worse than either of the other two. Battery life is awesome and amazing. Video suport very nice and looks really good. Dropped it and picked it right back up, no scratched even though it landed face down.

You make the decision from the observations I point out or just totally ignore me. I offer it’s up to you what to accept.

New Egg  for  you need to locate

HFGL

TruXter